My words won’t do justice to the Perfume Pagoda. Sixty five kms from Hanoi, it’s known to the Vietnamese as Chua Huong and is thought to be over 500 years old. Many visit because they believe they will be graced with good luck. The complex houses 15 separate pagodas nestled amongst the tropical Huong Tich mountains. To reach the main entrance you must travel 5 km along a river almost entirely flanked by lotus flower farms. The journey there induced conversations about Joseph Conrad’s ‘Heart of Darkness’ but the only darkness we felt was when the bill arrived for lunch. We were told that less than 200 other visitors joined us on Saturday compared to the hundreds of thousands of Buddhists pilgrims who come to the site during New Year celebrations called Tet. We’ll return, but perhaps not then.